Augusta, by Simone Cecchetto

Interview by Kevin Y.

H.Lorenzo interviewed Simone Cecchetto, the singular designer and creator of the artisanal leather line Augusta.  Lauded for its rumpled, old-world leather footwear crafted from exotic hides, Augusta provides special leatherworks to the H.Lorenzo boutiques.  Simone Cecchetto constructs every shoe by hand and even cultures his own leather, distinguishing himself as one of the most passionate leather artisans today.  Below are excerpts from a meeting at our boutiques in Los Angeles.  

- Square One -

( Words by Simone Cecchetto )

"I never studied to design shoes.  I studied, worked, and evolved through 3 years of self-study.  In 3 years, I explored all the possibilities for shoemaking, starting with the stitch.  Then I was able to start designing a collection.  The first collection used with a simple stitch - a blake stitch - and then in every successive season I tried to develop new shapes, develop new styles, and develop new ways of stitching.   

Regarding the shape, I experimented with a square shape, a round shape, etc.  I think every season I develop 10, 20 shapes in research.  But when finally I go to Paris for the presentation, I think I present only about 2 or 3 new shapes.  And so before, the research for the shape is incredible.  I study and I find inspiration from many different sources.  There was one artist...what was his name?  I think it was  Norman Rockwell an illustrator for the New York Times maybe 70 years ago.  I found this old book of Norman Rockwell and it served as inspiration.  I don’t remember if it was the first or second collection I did, but I was also inspired by Japanese manga.  And so for every season my inspiration evolves and I'm led to develop new shapes.  I develop for the moment and my design is spontaneous.  I design for the inspiration i find in just one minute, it’s crazy.  People can’t understand why when they go to the showroom they see so many variations of shape - there's one a little bigger and another one just a little bit smaller.  But all these variations are just for me.  Because I design so I can be satisfied, and so I need to explore all the different possibilities of shapes.  My designs are probably good for one day, but not for the next.   So the work in the back is incredible – for the leather, for the shape, for all, it’s very complicated to develop one pair of shoes.  It’s super complicated.  I always start with the leather - I study the leather hides, then I select one and experiment with it, try it, feel it, and explore all its tactile properties.  I always search for the perfect leather.  After selecting the leather, then I can concentrate on developing the shoes, starting with studying the shape, but also how the leather molds to the desired shape.

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Lost&Found, By Ria Dunn

  

Interview by Kevin Y.

H.Lorenzo had the pleasure to interview Ria Dunn, creator of the artisanal Tuscan label Lost&Found, to hear her meditations on design.  Lost&Found produces phenomenal menswear and womenswear, and we read a complex interplay of nonchalance, experimentation, and luxurious elegance in this season's offerings.  Like many things we esteem, Lost&Found is a label whose details are its most salient features, and so it should be experienced firsthand to be appreciated in full.   

How did the label “Lost&Found” originate?

Lost & Found originated from my desire to create something that could communicate to a customer more deeply and could represent something meaningful.  I had worked in the clothing industry for many years and I was stuck in this cycle of disposable fashion.  I was tired of it and decided that I wanted to do something opposite of that world.  I wanted to create clothing that would remain with time, clothing that was intriguing in a deeper sense.  I wanted to create a way of dressing that was more introspective and private.  So I began to think about discovery and loss...and it's cycle...and this was the creation of Lost & Found.

Using labor-intensive techniques, Lost&Found seems to reclaim romantic traditions with regards to how clothing is made.  What compelled you to choose this path?

It was not really a choice I made, but it was really the instinctive and natural way I've always wanted to make clothes.  I am compelled to go extremely deep in all of the research and development of a piece/a collection.  I am an emotional person, and I need that you can pick up a garment and find something personally revealed in it.  I can only do that by starting the creation process right from the first material.

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